7807 127 ave NW
    Edmonton, AB T5C 1R9
    Phone 780-477-8433
    Fax 780-474-4679

    “Material Requirements”

    A.      Mortar Components.

    1.      Mix

    1 part masonry cement (Lafarge Type S or N)  

    2 ¼ parts masonry sand

    2.      Mortar colour (if desired)

     

    B.        Weather-resistant barrier

    1.      Black Hal-Tec 30 tar paper (16.5 lb. weight) or similar. That conforms to CAN 2-5.32m77

     

    C.         Metal Lathe

    1.      Expanded metal lathe (diamond mesh) galvanized 2.5 gauge.

     

    D.       Fasteners

    1.      Galvanized nails or staples – 1 ½ “ Roofing nails

    2.      Galvanized staples – 1 ½ “ – 16 gauge

     

    E.        Masonry Sealer (If you choose but not necessary)

    1.      Breather type (non-film forming) sealer (if required) water base only

     

    “Surface Preparation

    For overtop brick, stucco, block, concrete

     

    A skim coat is to be applied over the surface to be covered. The coat should be ⅜” to ½” thick and scratched afterwards to provide a rough surface. This will ensure an excellent bond to the surface.

    For raw concrete on new construction, care must be taken that the area is free of form release agents, also

    Mortar will not bond to dirty or dusty walls. Therefore all surfaces should be washed prior.

     

    Constructed Wall

     

    Heavy tar paper (16.5 lb. weight) is to be installed double layered horizontally, 2” below the lowest point of the wood framing, progressing upward with a minimum of 4” overlap. Galvanized metal lathe (2.5 gauge) is to be installed over lapping sections, secured with 1 ½” roofing nails or 1 ½” 16 gauge galvanized staples.

    Be sure to have 1” penetration into stud centres and 6” minimum space between on vertical.

    Generally lathe is installed working from the middle out, this will greatly add to its tightness.

     

    Scratch coat is now applied using a plasterers trowel; pick up some of your mortar and takings long stroking movements apply to wall. If mortar is to soupy add equal parts to adjust, ⅜” to ¾” thick is sufficient. When completed scratch horizontally to aid in stone adhesion.

    Note: It is of great importance to scratch tight up against window and door frames, also to flashing that

    is installed to code.

     

     

     

    “Prepare Your Work Area”

     

    On a large table close to you spread out the contents of a few boxes so it will be easier to pick out the stones to fit. Plan for variety and contrast in overall design. Use small stones next to large stones, heavy-textured stones next to smooth, thick ones next to thinner ones.

     

    “Mortar Adhesive”

     

    Mortar should be mixed to a firm, and moist consistency. It should be similar to the consistency of icing for a cake. Mortar that is too dry and crumbly will not provide a proper bond. Mortar that is to wet will be weak and messy. Do not ever use anti-freeze compounds in the mixture.

     

     

    Applying “Country Stone” over your scratch coat

     

    A.     Start from the bottom and work up, on exteriors stay at least 1" off the concrete driveways or sidewalks, as they are susceptible to frost heaving and can damage the first course of stone.

     

    B.     Corner pieces are placed first. On the back of the stone butter on approximately ¾” to 1” mortar. Spread it evenly, and then push it onto the scratch coat with a slight twisting motion, you will feel it adhere to the wall. This will ensure a good bond; excess will ooze out the edges.

     

    C.     With your next flat stone mortared in the same way, again use the twisting motion to set the stone in place. The excess mortar will overlap onto the previous stones top edge. The space between the stones should be ½” or so. Be aware that initially joints appear larger due to the weeping mortar joints. It is important to keep joint spacing as consistent as is possible.

       

    D.    Repeat the above process “C”, laying stones from the corners to the middle.

     

    E.     When the mortar joints have become firm or thumb-print dry (setting time will vary depending on wall surface and climatic conditions), they should be pointed with an upwardly motion where possible, this is done with a carved wooden stick such as a painters stir stick. This pointing packs the mortar into the joints and makes excess crumble away. Careful attention to even jointing will result in a professional looking finish. Joints should be brushed after to remove any remaining loose mortar and smooth out the joints.

    A wet brush should never be used to treat mortar joints as this will cause staining that will be difficult, or even impossible, to remove.

     

    F.      Cleaning the job is the last step* when the mortar is sufficiently set up, clean the stone faces and edges of any excess mortar, do so carefully with damp sponge.

    *BEFORE THE MUD HAS HAD TOO MUCH TIME TO DRY OR IT WILL BE MORE DIFFICULT TO REMOVE.

     

    G. For Windows, Doors, Vents, Pipes, Electrical outlets etc. Apply the paper, lathe and scratch coat tight to protrusion then apply stone as per above.

     

     

    “Big Horn Stack”

     

    A.     Starting Point.

    Start from the bottom with a level line or a 2”x4” for a straight edge. The 2”x4” can be removed

    within ½ hour after laying stone. Start with corner stone.

     

    B.     Setting Stone.     

    Due to new building codes in Calgary, which will likely soon follow in Edmonton, this stone needs

    to have a mortared joint around entire the stone. This method is best to aid in the minimizing of

    water penetration between the stones, in order to help prevent them from separating in the

    free/thaw cycles. Also, it aids in creating a unified look, instead of having mortarless joints being

    accented on the stone wall. If mud used is a little soupier than normal, it will easily squish out

    slightly when pushed against another stone, aiding in this 1/8" mortared joint. This is another

    reason why colored mortar is used in laying the bighorn stack line. Make sure you have no

    excess mortar on sides when butting stones together. Level should be checked frequently.

     

    C.     Corners.  

    Notice corners have long and short legs. Alternate these in opposite directions. Make sure they are

    level and this should be your first stone laid.

     

    D.    Options.

    It is possible to fill in the thin vertical joints if you wish. Purchase the proper”iron oxide” colour

    from manufacturer.

     

     

     

    General Information

     

    Cleaning Dirt and Soot

    Use a strong solution of granulated soap or detergent and water with a bristle brush. Do not use a

    wire brush, as it will cause damage to the surface. Rinse immediately with fresh water.

     

    Salt and de-icing Chemicals

    Country Stone is not warranted` against damage incurred from salt or other chemicals used to remove snow and ice.

     

    Scuffing

    Scuffing occurs on all natural stone. Occasionally some scuffing will occur on the surface of Country Stone. This can enhance the natural appearance of your stone. Some can be removed by cleaning.

     

    Maintenance

    All pillar caps, copings, and dripedge (sills) should be sealed with water base sealer. It is advisable to reseal every 2 years.